Sun Temple at Modhera

Sun Temple at Modhera is one amongst the few shrines that are dedicated to Sun God. Read more about Sun Temple in Gujarat.

Sun Temple ModheraSun Temple at Modhera is one of the few shrines that are dedicated to the Sun God. Situated on the banks of Pushpavati River in Modhera, Sun Temple is easily accessible from Ahmedabad, the largest city of Gujarat. The nearest station to Modhera is located at Ahmedabad, which lies at a distance of 102 kms. Regular bus services are also available from Ahmedabad to Modhera. The nearest Railway station is sited at Mehsana, with a mere run of 25 kms.

In 1026, the temple was built by King Bhimdev of the Solanki dynasty (believed to be the descendants of the lineage of Sun God). This ancient temple revives the reminiscences of Sun Temple at Konark in Orissa. Turning in the pages of history, one can notice the mention of Modhera in the scriptures like Skanda Purana and Brahma Purana. The surrounding area of Modhera used to be known as Dharmaranya (forest of righteousness) and the place was blessed by Lord Rama.

Architecture

The brilliant architecture of the temple is one of its own class. The temple encompasses three different yet axially-aligned and integrated constituents. As per the Konark Temple, this shrine is designed in a manner, so that the first rays of the Sun cast on the image of the Lord Surya. The Temple was plundered by Mahmud Ghazni; still the architectural grandeur is not vanished. No matter what is left, yet the remnants provide a great enchantment to behold.

Erected on a high platform, the Temple appears majestic with its grand structure. However, the spires are out of the scene, but the 'Toranas' (Archways) that lead to the main halls overshadow the absence of spires or shikhars. The exterior walls are engraved with intricate carvings, boasting about the mastery of art in those times. Every single inch of the structure is covered with the sculptural patterns of Gods, Goddesses, birds, beasts and flowers. Actually, the Sun Temple is divided into three parts namely Surya Kund, Sabha Mandap and Guda Mandap.

Surya Kund

Surya Kund is a deep stepped tank in the front of the temple. The tank was named after the Lord Surya (Sun God). In the earlier times, this 100 sq meter rectangular tank was used to store pure water. The devotees used to take a halt here for ceremonial ablutions before moving towards the temple. Not less than 108 shrines mark the steps of this tank including the shrines dedicated to Lord Ganesha, Lord Shiva, Sheetala Mata and many others. In front of this tank, a huge 'torana' (archway) leads to the Sabha Mandap.

Sabha Mandap

Literally, Sabha Mandap refers to an assembly hall where religious gatherings and conferences are conducted. This hall is open from all the four sides and has 52 delicately carved pillars. The intricate carvings depict scenes from the Ramayana, Mahabharata (Indian Epics) and scenes from the life of Lord Krishna. In order to get into the Sanctum Sanctorum, one has to cross the passage with pillars and arches.

Guda Mandap

Guda Mandap is the sanctum sanctorum that is supported by a lotus-base plinth. Once, this hall used to house the idol of the Sun God. The designing of the hall was done in a way, so that the idol gets the first glimpse of the Sun at equinoxes. However, the idol was plundered by Mahmud Ghazni yet the walls represent the Sun God in his 12 different facets of each month. The carved walls also depict the aspects of human life like the vicious circle of birth and death. The façade of this hall was renovated in the recent years, despite the fact that the roof over the Guda Mandap had already been shattered.

Festival

Modhera dance festival is the major festival that is observed by the Sun Temple. This dance festival is organized to keep the Indian traditions and culture alive. It is held in the third week of January every year. The classical dance forms in the premises of this temple revive the imperial ambiance during the period. Gujarat Tourism organizes this event to promote tourism at this place.

There are two prominent Sun temples in India. One is Konark on the east coast in the state of Odisha. And the other in the western state of Gujarat at Modhera. In this post, I am going to explain the architecture of Sun Temple Modhera that was built in 1026 CE by King Bhimdev – a Solanki King who ruled from Patan. Solankis are a Suryavanshi dynasty. Descendants of Sun and hence a temple dedicated to Sun. This temple is a contemporary of Chola temples in South and Chandela temples in North. This was the peak of Indian temple architecture with ample examples across the country of finest sculpted architecture.

If I were to close my eyes and go back in time, I would like to go back to early 11th CE when the country would be full of lovely temples with painted walls and artists still working on giving the finishing touches to their masterpieces. When in ruins they look so enthralling. How would they be when they were all practicing temples with music and dance a part of their daily rituals? One can only imagine. Let’s look at what is left with us after Mahmud Ghazni & Allaudin Khilji’s generals tried their best to destroy the Sun temple at Modhera.

Architecture of Sun Temple Modhera explained

Surya Kund, Sabhamandapa & Main temple at Modhera

Surya Kund, Sabhamandapa & Main temple at Modhera

Let me explain the Architecture of Sun Temple Modhera. Modhera Sun temple has 3 main parts. The main temple with a Garbhagriha and a mandapa called Guda Mandapa, a detached Sabhamandapa, and a stepped water tank. When the temple reflects in the waters of the tank it looks mesmerizing. It’s reigning deity – the Sun helps enhance the beauty at its magic hours in the morning and evening. Just behind the temple, the river Pushpavati flows. You can see some Keerti Torans on the side of the temple. It is not a practicing temple as there is no idol left in the temple.

The temple is built using the locking system that is said to be an earthquake resistant method. As in the case of an earthquake; the structure would shake but not fall. It also sits on the tropic of cancer that passes through India. I am yet to figure out the significance of building a temple right on the tropic of cancer. Awe is the first expression you would have when you first look at the temple. I went around the temple a couple of times and then hired a guide who then explained the nuances.

Surya Kund at Sun Temple, Modhera

Surya Kund, understand architecture of Sun Temple Modhera

The water tank or Surya Kund at Modhera’s Sun temple is a stepwell on the eastern edge of Sun temple complex facing the Sabha Mandapa. It has pyramid shaped steps forming some intriguing geometric patterns on the steps. However what makes this tank distinct from other similar temple tanks is the presence of big and small temples on its steps. On the step directly opposite the temple, a temple has Vishnu on Shesh Shaiya. There are temples dedicated to Ganesha and Shiva as Nataraja. One temple is dedicated to Shitlamata – the goddess of Chicken Pox, whose vehicle is a donkey and she holds broom in one hand and Neem leaves in another. Other temples are in various states of ruins, but they all look beautiful even now.

It is said that originally there were 108 shrines on these steps. It is difficult to count how many of them remain, but they are just simply beautiful. The geometry of the formations is breathtaking.

Big & small temples on steps of Surya Kund at Sun Temple Modhera

Big & small temples on steps of Surya Kund, architecture of Sun Temple Modhera explained

According to literature, the steps of Surya Kund are a stylized mirror image of the Shikhara that unfortunately no longer exists. Symbolically it brought together the fire and the water.

Turtles still live in the waters of this tank. This tank is also called Ramakund for the legend of Rama associated with the place.

Sabhamandapa at Sun Temple, Modhera

Sabhamandapa is a diagonally arranged octagonal hall that welcomes you with its exquisite toran. Its best feature is it’s magnificent carved pillars carrying Torana arches in alternate triangular and semi- circular designs. Literature tells me there are 52 pillars denoting the 52 weeks in a solar year. The heavily carved pillars have scenes from Ramayana, Mahabharata & Krishna Leela. Some of the scenes that I remember is Sita in Ashok Vatika in Sri Lanka, Vanar Sena with stones in their hands to make the bridge, Krishna with Govardhan Parvat on his finger tip and Arjuna with his bow in Draupadi’s Swayamvar. There are Vishkanya’s doing their makeup.

This hall was used for public functions – religious or otherwise like councils, performances or public meetings.

Main Sun Temple

Sun Temple Main Building at Modhera

Main Temple at Modhera

The Sun temple is so designed that on the days of equinoxes i.e. 21st March and 21st September, the first rays of sun fall on the idol of Sun in Garbhagriha. Is this not an engineering wonder too then? The main sun temple is on a plinth that is designed like an inverted lotus. Remember lotus is a flower that responds to the sun rays and lives only for the time sun rays are there. On top of lotus petals is a panel carved with Elephants called Gaj-petika. Above these the entire life cycle of a human being is carved; starting right from the time a human being is conceived with an act of intercourse to the death depicted with last rites. There are other erotic figures as well on the exterior as was the norm in the temples of that era.

There are sculptures of people playing various musical instruments. Above these flora/fauna/life are deities. There are 12 idols of Parvati in her various forms called Dwadash Gauri. There are 12 idols of Sun as if he is all pervading. Some idols of Sun are in Irani Style with Gumboots and a long cap. As per the guide, this is because the sun worship started in Iran.

Deities of 8 directions

8 directions of the temple have deities of the 8 directions:

North – Kubera, the lord of wealth

North-East – Rudra – a form of Shiva

East – Indra or lord of Rains

South-East – Agni or lord of Fire

South – Yama, God of death

South-West – Nairiti – a form of Shiva

West – Varun or lord of water

North-West – Vayu or Lord of Air

Carvings on main temple walls at Sun Temple Modhera

Carvings on main temple walls

Plundering

It is said that the main idol was made of pure gold and depicted sun sitting on his chariot with 7 horses with his Sarathi Arun driving the chariot. The idol sat on a deep plinth that was again filled with gold coins. Today, all you can see is the deep pit in Garbhagriha that tells the tale of plundering. It is said that the diamonds on the idol could lit the whole temple. All this is oral history and no one knows where the idol is. Some say that when the attacks were made on the temples, some Brahmin families hid the idols with them and saved it. Based on what I read and heard, whereabouts of this idol are not known. There is a closed underground path that potentially links the temple to Patan, the capital city of Solankis.

Inverted lotus petals, panel of elephants carrying temple on their back and human life. carved at Sun Temple Modhera

Inverted lotus petals, the panel of elephants carrying temple on their back and human life.

Garbhagriha has a circumambulation path and is attached to an octagonal Guda mandapa. Guda mandapa is embellished with niche images of twelve Aditya’s – showing different aspects of the Sun – probably representing each Solar month.

The Shikhara or the superstructure is missing so the temple now looks flatter than it should be.

According to Skanda Purana and Brahma Purana, it is said that when Ram was coming back from Sri Lanka after killing Ravana, he wanted to do absolve himself of the sin of killing a Brahmin – remember Ravana was a Brahmin. He asked Vashishth Muni to show him a place where he can do the same and the sage pointed him to Dharmaranya – or the forest of the Dharma. Rama performed his Yagna here and established a village called Sitapur. Sitapur is the village that came to be known as Modhera later, which actually translates to a mound of the dead, probably because this place has seen layers of civilization, one upon the other. Another legend says this Modhera got its name from Modh community of Brahmins who helped Rama perform his yagna here.

Sun temple at Modhera is one of the few archeological sites that are very well maintained by ASI. Do put it on your itinerary when you go to Gujarat. Hope this blog helps you better understand the Architecture of Sun Temple Modhera.